October 2005 : The Genuine Article

I was enjoying a beer recently in a local pub which has a Thai restaurant. There was a wine list with over 30 wines from six different countries including a Thai red and white house wine. Only two of the wines were French. Following my earlier comments I really do believe that the French have missed the boat and will never recover the market share they enjoyed for generations. They underestimated the New World revolution and now it’s too late.

Remember I also referred to certain frauds in the Champagne area in a previous column. Well it looks like the Italians are also up to no good! A famous Chianti Classico name has allegedly been mis-labelling – using cheaper wine purporting to be top quality. This reminds me of two experiences from my youth. The first was in Glasgow when whisky was rationed after World War II. Suddenly everyone was buying Johnnie Walker Red Label under the counter – which turned out to be cold tea! The second, which still brings tears of laughter, was when Dom Perignon was rationed and all the wide-boys were buying up van loads……what was it really? Italian Asti Spumenti What was most amusing though, the number of people who couldn’t tell the difference. More than a touch of “Minder” and Arthur Daley – this was a real life scam!

Continuing the New World theme, we held a series of tastings at the Academy during October featuring red and white wines from 12 different countries – the reaction was highly favourable with the wines being of good quality and very reasonably priced – accessible to all. We’re also holding a very special tasting on Sunday 30 October in London where we will be comparing New World wines with their equivalent from the Old World. Contact me if you want further details.

One last comment. UK sparkling wines made to rival Champagne are talked up as better than the genuine article. I have now tried several sparkling wines and I am not convinced. There may be the odd one or two which stand out but generally I prefer the real turtle soup – not merely the mock!

Happy & Healthy Drinking!
Kenneth Harry Putt

This month's recipe : Fraser Salmon

It’s unusual to cook smoked salmon, but it makes an extremely different taste and a good way to use up left overs! This recipe will make either one large dish or 4 individual servings. You will need ovenproof dishes.

Ingredients:
2oz Butter
2 large cooked potatoes
4oz chopped spinach (fresh or frozen)
8oz smoked salmon
1.5oz plain flour
half pint liquid (milk and cream mixed)
3oz grated cheese
sprinkling of Parmesan cheese

Method:
Using half the butter, rub the inside of the dish(es) evenly. Place slices of cooked potato on the buttered surface, cover with a layer of chopped spinach (if you are using fresh, blanch it first in boiling water). Cut the smoked salmon into small pieces and place a layer over the spinach. If you are using individual dishes it’s nice to make a little pile in the centre of the dish, when it’s cooked it will look much more interesting!.

When all the layers are complete make a sauce using the roux method. Gently pour over the salmon, making sure it is all covered. Lightly cover with the grated cheese and finely sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake in moderate oven for about 10 to 15 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with side salad and wedge of lemon.