August 2005 : Easily spread with a knife

There is an old wine trade expression describing owners of famous Chateaux, Grand Cru & Premier Cru Champagne houses and other ‘substantial’ wine producers - “They are sitting in butter” - a reference to their monetary position!

These particular owners demand high prices for their wines irrespective of varied quality vintages. In fact in a year when a vintage is not of the highest regard, all chateaux use what is called a “second label” – thus protecting their prime labels. When a good vintage occurs they increase their prices accordingly – a win-win situation. Hence the ‘butter’ analogy! The other advantage is that the value of the land increases too.

I am reminded of this matter by a report just published about the Champagne region. Apparently demand for Champagne worldwide is exceeding production levels. The obvious answer is to plant more vines, but that is not so simple! The governing body for Champagne will not allow extra planting unless soil and conditions are suitable.

So on the one hand, growers wishing to capitalise on increasing demand are frustrated by the impasse - it could be 5 – 10 years before any agreement is realised (in France events move very slowly). But on the other hand, the same growers observe a huge increase in the value of their land! The old expression is most apt! What a great life.


Happy & Healthy Drinking!
Kenneth Harry Putt

This month's recipe : Steamed Baked Cod with Asian Flavours

Thinking of our holiday to Malaysia last year and all the flavours they use in their cooking, and I have put together a very easy and simple way to cook fillet of cod and taste wonderful flavours like ginger, chilli, lemon grass and lime leaves. The steaming effect is a very healthy way of eating – perfect for a weekday supper.

Ingredients : (serves 4 people)

4 skinned fillets of cod (6-8oz each), boned
1 tbsp coarsely grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 red chilli de-seeded and chopped
1 tbsp lemon grass, outer skin removed and chopped
2 tablespoons spring onions
2 lime leaves
1 large lime grated and squeezed
Lime wedges to serve
Small handful of shredded coriander
1 tbsp fish sauce
Olive oil
Pepper

Method :

Tear a piece of tin-foil big enough to fit the 4 portions of fish onto, which will fit on a baking tray to go in the oven. Place the foil on the baking tray and brush with a little olive oil to stop the fish from sticking. Season the fish with a little pepper. In a bowl mix all the other ingredients together, leaving some of the spring onion and coriander for decoration. Add enough olive oil to make a thick 'dressing' consistency and pour this mixture over the fish. Rub in with your hands so that the fish gets completely covered in the flavours and leave to marinade for at least an hour.

Cover the fish with the foil and put into the fridge. When ready to cook, heat an oven to 160 degrees. Once hot, place the fish in the oven. It will slowly steam cook - this should take about 20mins, but check the fish as the time will vary depending on the thickness of the fish. It should be flaky to touch when cooked.

Take out each piece of fish and place onto the plate. Spoon over the juices and serve immediately, with the lime wedges and the sprinkled spring onions and coriander leaves.

This can be served with rice and a bean sprout salad – just mix a little sesame oil and lime juice over the sprouts, a few leaves of coriander and some chopped chilli. Enjoy these fantastic flavours!